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Some suggest the thinset should be solid under a tile. The grooves set the mortar thickness, but the air gaps in between the rows allows squishing down to perfect height and level. That means there will always be some air space left below the tiles. If the floor drops away as you go to need thicker mortar, switch to a trowel with bigger notches, to avoid excessive air space underneath. I bought new-type spacers w/ a leveler wedge (Home Depot) which pulls each tile to be flush vertically with its neighbors. First time w/ those so will see how well it works.

I wouldn’t take advice from this guy on how to clean a trowel let alone lay tile.

I wouldn’t pry away from the ceiling at all for a “consistent reveal” of the vertical stock piece. The beauty of this method is being able to disguise inconsistencies between the molding and ceiling. Shove that crown all the way to the ceiling! No one will notice there’s more vertical stock showing but they will see a shadow between the crown and ceiling if you pull it away from the ceiling to maintain a reveal. And negates caulking which is just silly.

So the island or sink pieces aren’t held onto the cabinet with any caulk?

Caulk bead goes on the frame nor the window.

This is the best floor tiling video on the tube

What size nails for the trim? What size nails for the frame?

Regarding the bead of caulk on the backside of the flange before setting, it is strongly recommended in all climates that a caulk with a rating of ASTM C-920 be used. Only the ASTM C-920 caulks are required to pass the tests for adhesion and long term durability in hot conditions. You will always find ASTM C-920 on the label of the tube if that caulk is rated as such. Other caulks, such as ASTM C-834 or those that show no ASTM rating on the label, are NOT required to pass the tests for adhesion and heat durability, and therefore they will almost always fail after a few short years, allowing air and water to find their way into your walls.

useless video, how do you come upon the materials, dimensions, installation location decicions?

I see you apply tile straight onto the thin set. when do you need to use a membrane? Were doing a small area in our kitchen (90x20inches) And arent sure which method to use as weve seen it done both ways. Thanks!

You went from thin set to mastic.

Who else came here to learn about the hard part of the job?

2024 uninstalling an ac unit in syria this is very helpful thank you

DO NOT ADD MUSIC NOISE TO ANY DIY DEMO CHANNEL. WRONG WRONG WRONG. INSANELY IRRITATING!!!!

Needs a decoupling membrane, back butter all over the tile. Don’t leave voids.

I can't see the step notes you included because there is a round circle of your logo on top of it.

No 2x4 frame or exterior repair?

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Those are not DTC hinges. ALL DTC hinges have the DTC brand on both halves.

What if I’m adding raised panels to the exposed ends of the uppers, lowers and pantry? Still just adhesive and brads?

Fuck that . Now I know why old people put carpet in a bathroom lmao

Amazing job!! Thank you

Music video cool 😅

Didn't use ditra before tiling?

Video does not discuss any details specific to concrete, you should change the title. Is the concrete cured, crack control, levelling or what thinset to use are all examples of useful info that should be in a video with this title. People could run into major problems without knowing more details.

No need for the background music

Don’t worry about the outside. I’m sure it’s fine. No worries.

You now why carpenters are mostly men... OCD..... That's why

It was a little flimsier than I expected. I had to add a 2x2 piece of wood to the bottom on the rear side in order to stabilize it better ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXTh-lz-8W6GcB219vTLp27-MxbZYObBX . It is also starting to bow a little at the outer wall ( I've had it up for about 6 months), I've already had a shelf tumble down because of the bow and the fact that the little shelf brackets are quite short. I went out to home depot and got some longer ones so that the shelves don't tumble down again. Overall, it looks very nice for the price and it holds a lot ( I use it as a pantry). I am very satisfied with my purchase. I just strongly suggest reinforcing it before putting it up.

Color muy bello

Fantastic

VERY HELPFUL THANK YOU!

This one is incorrect! Before setting the window, you MUST flash the rough opening first!

Thank you. No-nonsense approach to explaining how to lay floor tiles.

If the concrete is new then you should put some type of underlay to avoid tile cracks in the future. If your concrete is 7+ years old and you are redoing the flooring, you only need underlay if the concrete has cracks. If it looks good then no underlay required. Usually. 😉

Great video! Straight to the point

Nice video despite all the criticism. Converting my garage into an ADU. The foundation is concrete and 30 years old without a single crack. I really do not see any reason to put an underlayment down. I have done tile over concrete before and just wanted a refresher course and the most important thing that I got from this video is using a long straight edge to run my tile against for a straight line. I have already placed all my tile down along straight edges that I'd drawn onto the concrete floor and made all my cuts for all my tile. I was afraid that I would lose my lines when placing the mortar down and my lines would not be straight bc they were covered up my mortar. With the straight edge in place i will be able to start both my vertical and horizontal tiles in place and the rest will follow straight. I am also using the Inline Leveling caps to insure all my tile in level.

Sounds like the voiceover was done during a volleyball game at the beach~

Wouldn't leveling cement have been easier than building the huge adhesive base beneath each tile? I'm also afraid that some of the corners of some of these tiles will be fragile since they have no support underneath. But excellent video though!

Great product! I recommend

Excellent explanation. Just what I was looking for! Thank you 😊

could you install a window there instead? That way maybe the siding problem would be moot.

Much respect! I thought you needed cement board or some sort of sub flooring cover over concrete. If the slab cracks the tile will too right?

Do not tile directly onto concrete. Use a decoupler. If you mortar the floor directly to the concrete and the concrete cracks, which concrete often does, the tile will crack too because there is nothing between the concrete and the tile helping to preventing it. There are many products on the market, Schulter Ditra, Mapei Mapguard 2, etc. You dont want to know the cost of having to fix a cracked tile floor.

Hope you see thia Robert

Instructions unclear. Now i got peanut butter under the tiles instead of mortar and mayonnaise in the tile spaces

How do you attach bottom trim to skin panels without using nails?

Thank you for this informative video

Thanks. This video is helpful

Nice ua-cam.com/channels/Kfh04a9lB-aez13rIHb5Ag.html